Thursday the 15th of September 2022 – Newman Rocks, Western Australia

Our site at Newman Rocks

We left Kalgoorlie for our trek across the Nullarbor. We plan to free camp in 4 different places as we strategically work out the best place to fill up and/or just top up. The fuel prices differ across the Nullarbor up to 70 cents per litre.

We stopped in Norseman for our obligatory morning tea before heading off to our first overnight at Newman Rocks, which is in the Fraser Range, about 130 K’s east of Norseman. Free Camping is exactly that, its free but you have to have your own power, water and of course toilet facilities, basically be self contained. Both vans are but 4 cloudy days might put a dent in our power levels if we can’t charge the batteries via solar. Also you are normally out in the middle of the bush which has its pleasantries as well.

Wednesday the 14th of September 2022 – Kalgoorlie, Western Australia

The Kalgoorlie Tramcar Tour, with Susan hanging out the window!

Today was our last day in Kalgoorlie, we leave tomorrow morning on the long trek east and home. We’ve done a number of activities in the 4 days here and finished off our stay with a great Thai meal in Hannah St, the Main Street in Kalgoorlie, good choice Sue! What surprises me is that both Kalgoorlie and the sister town nearby Boulder, have so many business and shop fronts closed. With so much gold mining occurring in the local area its hard to fathom why this is the case, maybe COVID but WA didn’t have the same degree of lockdowns that the eastern states had. With the Superpit closing around 2035, the future does not bode well for both towns. Maybe new technology will assist but I’m sure the level of employment in the mines will not be the same.

The council chambers at the Boulder Town Hall. A very young QE 2 overlooks the chambers.
The Framehead of the Mining Museum overlooks Kalgoorlie’s Main Street
The basement of the Mining museum contains a proper bank vault which houses over $4,000,000 in gold, either in nugget form or jewellery as such as the brooches above. All gold is from the local goldfields.
The British Arms Hotel the narrowest 2 story pub in Australia. Now used as a community centre and museum.
Outside the iconic Exchange Hotel

So for the next 5 days we will be travelling across the Nullarbor, free camping along the cliffs of the Great Australian Bight and hoping that we may see Whales as they cross the ocean very near the Australian coast.

Monday the 12th of September 2022 – Kalgoorlie, Western Australia

1st tee at Kalgoorlie Golf Course

Another CRAPP has dropped into your inbox! Today Andrew, Sue and I played Kalgoorlie Golf Course and we were really looking forward to this course as its been well reviewed over the years. I have to say we were disappointed as its reviews did not match up to what we were offered today. Very hard to understand how a course voted well inside the top 100 courses in Australia could not offer you a drink or something to eat after a round. Also the pro shop had limited stock, no KGC polo shirt for me, they had only 4 men’s shirts and basically they were for small or men’s size.

Design – Interesting but we found it hard to understand why the 1st tee was so long from the clubhouse. We couldn’t find the first tee even with a map, it took us 30 minutes and directions from the pro shop before we could locate it. Graham Marsh has designed a fine course but it is very complicated and difficult. Rating: 16 out of 20

Condition – Fairways were very good but the greens were very “fluffy’ and slow. Additionally the bunkers (not waste areas) were inconsistent and not much care was taken by other players or club members in cleaning up after themselves. Rating: 13 out of 20

The 15th par 3

Cost – We received a discount as senior card holders but at $75 normal price for 18 holes, we thought that was too much for what was offered. Rating: 12 out of 20

Visual Appeal – Driving into the course the view is outstanding, its the red dirt against the green fairways that gives you a vibrant contrast. It really grabs you and you want to play the course, probably one of the most visually appealing courses we played. Rating: 18 out of 20

Facilities – Based on what was offered today, there was little. The clubhouse and pro shop was disappointing and the practice putting green was also ordinary. Once again it was surprising how limited the facilities were. Rating: 4 out of 10

This photo really shows up the grassed areas , anything else is red dirt!

Ambience – There was none. It was not a comp day but we’ve played other courses on non comp days and managed to have a drink and something to eat and a general chat with the locals, not here. Rating: 2 out of 10

The 18th Green

Summary – After looking forward to playing this course since I left Melbourne 3 months ago, it was very disappointing. I think we may have had an off day but nevertheless what we were offered today was sub-standard for a course that is rated so high. I’m sure when the magazine guys played here as part of the rating trip they did not experience the conditions we had today. The final score was 65 and I really thought that Kalgoorlie would be the best or close to the best course I have played during our trip around Oz. I suppose all golfers who come to Kalgoorlie will play the course but on todays experience, I think the locals are ripping off the visitors.

Sunday the 11th of September 2022 – Kalgoorlie, Western Australia

Kalgoorlie

Yesterday we left Gwalia to come down to Kalgoorlie which has been a place I have always wanted to visit. Once again its a mining town, gold has been mined here for over 130 years. Now all the mining leases have been consolidated under the company called KCMG Ltd (Kalgoorlie Consolidated Mining Company). This has created a single large mine which is now one of the largest open cut gold mines in the world. Hard to believe it started from a couple of blokes prospecting in the area nearly 150 years ago. It has gone from the golden mile to a super pit!

Patrick Hannah, one of the original founders of Kalgoorlie and original gold mining lease holder. The Main Street of Kalgoorlie and many other areas are named in his honour.
The York Hotel on Hannah Street, a bit over the top for a country hotel but built in 1091, it’s probably just a sign of the times.
This is the super pit at Kalgoorlie. It’s a panoramic photo so it doesn’t give you the depth and overall size of the pit. All I can say, its a bloody big hole in the ground but its still one of the biggest gold producing mines in the world. Currently a tonne of rock gives you a few once’s of gold, the tailings are being kept for advances in technology to enable more gold to be extracted from the mine diggings.
This bucket is from one of the mine’s diggers and can lift 65 tonnes of rock, so based on current gold prices that equates to about USD 220,000 per bucket. Sounds a lot of money but when you consider the costs involved, such as 3,100 litre fuel tank just on this digger and they are refueled at least 2 times a day, its no wonder how deep the super pit is!
The Main Street of Boulder, all veranda frontage on the shops.
Hay Street in Kalgoorlie has been renowned for over 100 years as the red light district of Kalgoorlie. We did a tour of the last surviving Brothel in Kalgoorlie and it was very interesting to say the least. It’s still an operating brothel but at present there are no girls working. The internet has made a major change to all occupations and the “Sex” trade is no different.

This is a working room of the brothel but its been the prime room for all “special” activities requested by the clients.

Today was a very interesting day. Hard to believe the brothel had tours and still open for business but Coles & Woolies close down at 3 pm. Funny world we live in. We are here in Kalgoorlie until Thursday when we start the long run back across the Nullarbor.

Friday the 9th of September 2022 – Leonora “Gwalia”, Western Australia

Hoover House, Gwalia.

Today we had a very interesting day and one to remember. Mount Magnet was “ disappointing” to say the least but today we travelled another 400+ K’s and had some memorable places to stop. Our plan was to drive to Leonora and the ghost town of “Gwalia” just outside of Leonora. About half way we stopped at Sandstone and it was a gem!

Main Street of Sandstone.

Sandstone is a very small town, 53 permanent residents and they have great delight in projecting their town to visitors. It would have to be one of the cleanest towns we have visited on this trip and the local information centre was keen for us to tour the local sites, which we did.

Sandstone’s version of London Bridge but it looked like a larger version of “Nature’s Window” at Kalbarri NP.
This was were a brewery was located in the very early 1900’s just outside Sandstone. Even in the middle of nowhere, the locals hid their “grog”!

We were told to stay at a free camp area just outside Leonora, called Gwalia, a ghost own! So obviously this gave us a reason to visit and we are so glad we followed this advice. Whilst Gwalia is a ghost town, there is still a viable gold mine in operation and we learnt so much about this area.

This is Hoover House, designed by Herbert Hoover in 1898 and who would later become the President of the USA 20+ later. He came out to Australia to manage the gold mine at Gwalia. It was a magnificent place, Susan automatically fell in love with it.
This is the open cut gold mine at Gwalia. This photo has been taken at the edge of the garden at Hoover House. Very hard to believe that on ones side you have such a lovely house and the other a bloody big hole in the ground!
Part of the ghost town at Gwalia. On the 27th of December 1963. The mine was closed down and it went from over 1500 residents to basically nothing overnight. Most of the dwellings left are very rough corrugated houses the the miners used.
The State Hotel was used by the Western Mining Company as administration offices until 2000, now it just another “ghost” relic of Gwalia.

Thursday the 8th of September 2022 – Mount Magnet, Western Australia

Main Street of Mount Magnet

We left Horrocks today and travelled down to Geraldton for fuel and our morning cuppa. Our overnight stay was Mount Magnet, just over 300 k’s from Geraldton. It was an “interesting town” very much reliant on mining activity in the local area. To be honest it was a dying town, if it was not for mining it would probably just be a fuel stop. Interesting that such a small town could have 3 pubs, although one had closed due to COVID.

We had a free camp just one street back from the Main Street. In the background you can see the caravan park and they paid probably $40 for their night whilst we had it for nothing. One win for us!

Wednesday the 7th of September 2022 – Horrocks, Western Australia

The 18th “Sand Scrape”

Yes, its been a few weeks since my last CRAPP, so it’s time to drop another one on your. Today Andrew and I played the Horrocks community golf course. As a 9 hole community course it was very basic, with sand scrapes for greens and basically fairways mowed on the paddocks at the back of the beach. We weren’t expecting much and that’s exactly what we got. As I have said before we have to mark each course as we see them. It’s obvious that the course had someone care for it in the past but its not in good nick now.

Design: The design of the course was reasonable considering the land that was available. Although the distance measuring on some of the holes left a lot to be desired. Rating 13 out of 20

Condition: Didn’t expect much, therefore we weren’t disappointed. Rating – 5 out of 20

The 1st hole at Horrocks.

Cost: It’s $10 for 9 holes, so $20 for 18 holes and based on the course, $20 for 18 holes was a bit rich. Rating 8 out of 20

Visual Appeal: The fairways were green and you could see the ocean from some of the holes but they were the highlights. Rating 10 out of 20

Facilities: Basically the only facility was the course and that says it all. Rating – 2 out of 10

The signature hole, the “8th”

Ambience: Really nothing, other than the sound of the ocean. Rating 3 out of 10.

So the final score was 41, probably a bit higher than I first thought it would be but I think we were a bit generous with the design score. We are really looking forward to next Monday when we take on the Kalgoorlie Golf Course, rated number 18 in Australia in the most recent Golf course ratings.

Tuesday the 6th of September 2022 – Horrocks, Western Australia

Horrocks

We left Kalbarri Monday morning for the short drive down to Horrocks, which is a small beachside holiday village about 70 K’s north of Geraldton. We stayed here at the Horrocks Beach Caravan Park 2 years ago and loved it so much we wanted to come again. Unfortunately the weather has not been all that kind for us as a cold front came thru and the first 2 days have been very windy and wet. So it was off to Northampton (22 K’s inland from Horrocks).

Northampton is famous for its colourful sheep all over the town, to many to photo all but this one got a friendly pat from Susan.
In front of the pub, are life sized cut outs of the local boys who have and are still playing AFL Football. For a small town of 500 people its a pretty good effort. The players are from the left, Patrick Cripps, Jamie Cripps, Liam Anthony, Harry Taylor, Josh Kennedy, Paul Hasleby, Tarkyn Lockyer, Daniel Chick & Andrew Lockyer
Horrocks Beach and the Jetty
A quick walk along the beach when the weather finally cleared up.

Thursday morning we head off down to Geraldton and then start our trek inland heading east. We have 2 free camps before we get to Kalgoorlie. Looking forward to staying at a ghost town, just outside Leonora on one of the free camps. We have a few tours planned in Kalgoorlie, one with a bit of a twist and of course really looking forward to golf at the Kalgoorlie course, recently voted number 18 golf course in Australia.

Sunday the 4th of September 2022 – Kalbarri, Western Australia

Kalbarri from the Meenera Hill lookout.

On Friday we left Carnarvon and headed south. Originally we were going to free camp and then travel onto Kalbarri but instead we continued onto Kalbarri so we could have a full day at the National Park and the town. A little bit of excitement travelling south, after all the rain in Carnarvon the previous day and night, the main highway was flooded in 4 areas, not all that deep but it did highlight how easy it would be to get trapped when heavy rains or a cyclone comes thru.

We were keen to spend as much time as we could in the National Park. Whilst Susan and I had done the Skywalk in 2020, Sue & Andrew had not experienced before and this was their first time. There is so much to see in the park, in my younger days I might have been enticed to do the 5 day walk thru the gorge, much younger days though!

Big River Station

As it has been throughout our trip, its been difficult to get into caravan parks, such as the number of people travelling. So we could only manage unpowered sites at the Big River Station. The views from the van overlooking the hills and the National Park are great and the locals are very friendly too. Emily Russell you would love all the horses here.

I don’t know his/her name but very friendly and loved a pat. Came straight up to me when I came to the fence. So even in the animal kingdom, everyone loves “Raymond”!
Sue & Susan on the Skywalk in the Kalbarri National Park
The famous window to the world. Managed to get a quick snap as there were many people queuing up for a photo.
The Murchison Gorge at the Z bend in the National park. It was very impressive and the photo does not do it justice. Very similar to the gorges in Karajini.
The Murchison River running thru the gorge at Hawks Head.
Andrew & I walked down to the river edge at Ross Graham. So called after the first school principal at Kalbarri who was a great advocate for the region to become a NP back in the 60’s. Unfortunately he died at an early age of 30 but this section of the gorge is named in his honour.
Looking across the Murchison River estuary to the township of Kalbarri.
I spent sometime walking along the beach and this Pelican decided he would go to all the fisherman and try and steal fish. Only problem was he wanted it given to him, he didn’t want to have to get himself.
We had a lovely meal tonight at Findlay’s in town. It has a special atmosphere with different tables and chairs inside and outside in what seems to be old shearing sheds.

So tomorrow its off to Horrocks, just a short drive down the coast. We are there for 3 days and all pressure is on Andrew & Susan to catch us fish for dinner, otherwise its to the General Store for their Fish & Chips. Horrocks is our last stop on the west coast as we then start to head eastwards towards home. Noticeably it certainly has become cooler since we left Karratha a few days ago. I think the days of mid 30’s are well and truly behind us for now.

Friday the 2nd of September 2022 – Carnarvon, Western Australia

Carnarvon. Interesting the town is situated on the Indian Ocean not a river or an Inlet.

Today it was up early and we left Bullara by 8 o’clock. It was very surprising to experience rain for the first time since we left Melbourne over 2 months ago. Unfortunately the rain has continued all day and our van site has basically been flooded for the last 4 hours, thankfully we are dry. Looks like we are going to experience rain for the next week, bugger!

First stop was the Minilya Roadhouse for breakie. Bacon & Egg Toastie and a coffee/tea, breakfast for champions!
As we walked into the roadhouse, I heard a call to take a photo of the 2 old chooks! I thought it was to be Susan and Sue but no, I was mistaken!