Thursday the 1st of September 2022 – Exmouth Gulf (“Bullara Station”), Western Australia

The entrance to Bullara Station

So after our free camp at Barradale, it was into Bullara Station for 3 days. We stayed here in 2020 and we wanted our fellow travellers to experience Bullara. Low to mid 30’s temperature and cloudless sky’s greeted us, although Friday morning we did wake up to light rain, all it did was settle the dust on the roads.

Once again another Camp Tree, this one is your typical Aussie “Bottle Brush”. I did leave my mark on this tree back in 2020 but I think the tree gets re-freshen fairly regularly and I don’t remember what I did add (and no, it wasn’t Bundy).
One of the unique attractions at Bullara is John and his Damper. # or 4 nights a week, John will make Damper in the camp fires, hand a piece around to everyone and then enlighten the crowd about Bullara, its Hiostory and a poem that he has written. John has been doing this for over 10 years. He spends about 9 months a year at Bullara and the rest of the time back home at Sorrento in Victoria. Not a bad gig for a ex Pommie policeman!
One thing about Bullara it enables you to use it as a base to visit Coral Bay and Exmouth, if you are not spending time at each place. Here we are at Coral Bay on the Ningaloo Reef, fond memories of snorkelling here back in 2020.
The water at Coral Bay, especially in from the reef is spectacularly clear!
Thursday it was off to Exmouth and lunch at the Beach Shack on Bundegi Beach.
After lunch at the Beach Shack, it was off to the western side of the Exmouth peninsula and a quick visit to Vlamingh Head Lighthouse, named after a Dutch explorer in the 1600’s. The lighthouse operated from 1912 to the 1960’s when a light was placed on the top of one of the VLF (Very Low Frequency) towers at the Harold E Holt naval Station at Exmouth.
Lighthouse Bay from the Vlamingh Head Lighthouse.
During WW2, The RAAF installed a radar station at the Lighthouse to warn of pending attacks by the Japanese. The remnants of the sandbags that surrounded the radar can been seen in the background. The Radar ceased operation at the end of WW2.
A few of the locals at Bullara came by to say goodbye!

Monday the 29th of August 2022 – Barradale, Western Australia

The Camp Tree

We caught up with Sue & Andrew today with Sandra & Ben. Sue & Andrew had been to Karajini whilst we had caught up with Sandra & Ben in Karratha the day before. So we stopped at Nanutarra and then ventured on to our overnight free camp at Barradale. A great free camp with plenty of space and in typical Aussie fashion, a tree has been used to “dump” unwanted stuff in the guise of an attraction. I just had to add to the varied “treasures” attached to the tree. What else would I add than a bottle (empty of course) of Bundy!

Sunday the 28th of August 2022 – Karratha, Western Australia

Karratha

Karratha is a very modern town when you compare it to all the other towns we have visited in the Kimberley and Pilbara regions, also the photo below shows the town in 1972. Obviously “mining” is the main reason for the transformation. We spent the afternoon touring around Karratha and the nearby town of Dampier, which we did not visit back in 2020. Not quite the size of Port Hedland but Dampier is still a big mining port, also the huge North West Shelf Gas project is HQ’ed in Dampier. A little bit of trivia, in a straight line, Karratha is the furtherest town/city from Melbourne on mainland Australia, so we are basically as far away from home as we can be whilst still being in Oz (excepting Australian territory islands).

Karratha 50 years ago!
A view of the Dampier Esplanade from our lunch venue
Dampier’s King Bay with 2 ore ships loading in the background at the Port of Dampier
The famous “Red Dog” of the Pilbara and immortalised in the Aussie movie Red Dog.
Typical topography of the area around Dampier
Salt Pans on the causeway between Dampier and Karratha
A sunset over Dampier looking from our caravan park in Karratha

Saturday the 27th of August 2022 – Paradise Plains, Western Australia

De Grey free camp rest area.

Well after 8 days we finally left Broome and headed south. In the end we travelled much further then originally planned. Stopped at Sandfire for brunch and had a special welcome from a local. Then a fuel stop at Pardoo roadhouse before we stopping for the night at De Grey rest area, just on 520 K’s, so it was a big day. Off to Karratha and Dampier tomorrow a short 300 K’s south.

Sandfire Roadhouse
A friendly welcome from one of the locals at Sandfire
Pardoo Roadhouse. (It doesn’t look much from the outside and the inside is not much better. Glad we decided to do a free camp at De Grey then stay here the night)

Friday the 26th of August 2022 – Broome, Western Australia

Sunset with the tide out at Roebuck Bay

Today is our last day in Broome as we retrieved “RAYNSU” from Broome Toyota after they rectified the issue we had, so tomorrow we’re off, heading south. We did have a quiet time here, waiting for the Cruiser to be fixed but managed to have a few outings around Broome. We’ve become quite accustomed to Broome, having had lengthy stays here in the last 2 years. To be honest I don’t mind Broome but I don’t believe its worth all the hype you hear about back home. It’s an extremely expensive place to holiday and I would sooner go back to Darwin or Port Douglas before heading back this way.

Thursday night markets at Town Beach
Broome Town Jetty (this was closed back in 2020 when we last visited, so it was good to have a walk there this time)
This is the prime location to view “Staircase to the Moon”. Found memories of our last visit when we were here to see it.
This artwork is to commemorate the attack on Broome by the Japanese on the 3rd of march 1942, just 2 weeks after Darwin was bombed. It’s entitled 9 Zeros & 9 Stories. It’s striking artwork at the start of the Town Jetty walk.
The old cemetery at Town Beach, a strong Asian influence here.
The last 6 nights we have stayed at the Broome Caravan Park, which is about 8 K’s from the centre of town. We stayed here in 2020 in the middle of COVID, with about 12 other vans, now the park is absolutely chockers! It had the best pool of all the caravan parks we stayed at in 2020 and it is still tremendous, definitely a plus for this park.

So Broome is basically done and dusted, we tick this off (again) our bucket list. In honesty I suppose Broome will forever be etched in our memory as the place we had to stay, whilst RAYNSU underwent a rather expensive repair. We did manage to have a slight respite in our 8 days here, so that was good. I only wish my golf was better! Maybe Kalgoorlie in a few weeks time will bring out my best, fingers crossed??????

Tuesday the 23rd of August 2022 – Broome, Western Australia

Cable Beach

So today we went and did some sightseeing. It’s 2 years since we were last here but it felt like yesterday, as we retraced our steps from our 2020 visit. From the main area of town, Matso’s for lunch and the iconic Cable Beach, it all felt so familiar. Although its warmer now at 34 degrees then our last visit and of course there are far more people travelling than 2020. After talking to Broome Toyota today, we are still on schedule to leave on Friday, so we have golf, markets, swimming, maybe dinner out and a movie in our plans for the next few days, before we begin our journey south hopefully in a rejuvenated “RAYNSU”!

An interesting wood carving of a pearling lugger in the centre of town.
The Sun Pictures “indoor & outdoor” cinema.
The giant abacus in Broome’s Chinatown
We had a very enjoyable lunch at Matso’s. The view over the water of Roebuck Bay was great and I didn’t mind a Ginger Beer or two!
Zanders restaurant and the gardens that overlook Cable beach.
I had to take this photo of one of the “locals” cars. No door handles so wire was used in lieu, very inivative but at least there were windows in this vehicle. Most of the other vehicles, the windows and or screens are missing or smashed.
Our new “tow vehicle” a Jimny! Not sure how far we would get towing “Be Brave” but its getting us around town whilst RAYNSU is getting fixed.

Saturday the 20th of August 2022 – Broome, Western Australia

Broome Golf Club, Clubhouse

It’s CRAPP time again and here we are at Broome Golf Club. Big changes since I played here 2 years ago. A new Clubhouse & Hospitality facility has been built overlooking Roebuck Bay and the course itself. Also they have a new greenskeeper and the course was looking very green, visually from the clubhouse the course looked great.

The course from the Clubhouse

Design – Once again, the land topography dictates the course structure and Broome, like nearly all the other courses we have played is basically flat, there are some inclines but not significant. We played in the wind from the east and it made the course very long, the par 4’s were very difficult to each in 2, so your short game needed to be on. Also the course does not come back to the clubhouse after 9, so it’s basically out for the full 18 holes, which is a rarity. Rating: 15 out of 20

Condition – Considering we were at the end of the dry season and there has been very little rain the course was in very good condition. Very green and well grassed fairways were backed up by good greens and surrounds. Greens were hard to judge but that’s been a constant theme on this trip, with all the greens being so different, it takes you a round to adjust. Still, the course was very good and only just beaten by Griffith which had a rating of 18. Rating: 17 out of 20

The 18th green and fairway.

Visual Appeal – As the photo above from the clubhouse shows, visually the course looks great and it continues as you walk the 18 holes. Rating: 16 out of 20

Cost – This was disappointing, we felt the cost to play was on the high side. I suppose you have to pay for the new facilities but it seemed overpriced for what was on offer. Rating : 10 out of 20

The view of Roebuck Bay and the Wharf from the Clubhouse.

Facilities – Other than the new clubhouse and a small practice green the facilities were a bit light on. The clubhouse is great but it needs a bit more re golf practice facilities from my point. Rating: 7 out of 10

Ambience – Certainly we felt very comfortable playing here (except it was hot) and the after round meals and drinks were fantastic. Rating: 8 out of 10

Summary – Well that gives Broome Gold Club a score of 73, very close to Griffith (75) and Broken Hill (74). I went back and checked my 2020 rating and it was 63, so there has been significant improvement over the last 2 years. All going well, our next course will be Kalgoorlie. Both Andrew and I are looking forward to playing this course and Sue is going to join us as well. So look forward to my next CRAPP, in Kalgoorlie.

Friday the 19th of August 2022 – Broome, Western Australia

Roebuck Bay

We arrived in a very hot Broome safely, despite our vehicle troubles. Haven’t noticed much difference since our visit 2 years ago, except the amount of visitors. In 2020 there were minimal travellers but now all the caravan parks are fully booked out, in fact we have to change parks whilst we are here getting the Cruiser repaired.

On Monday, Sue and Andrew will head off down south whilst we stay here. We have been told in will be 4 days, so we are hoping to get away on Friday and eventually catch up with them at Bullara Station in about 8 days time. That’s the plan but based on our experiences on this trip so far, anything could happen. So our fingers and everything else are crossed for a successful and quick outcome with the Cruiser and we can be on the road again.

Lunch at the Mangrove Hotel overlooking Roebuck Bay

Thursday the 18th of August 2022 – Derby, Western Australia

Our Cessna Caravan (appropriate) Seaplane.

We’ll for the last 24 hours we have ticked off a bucket list item, a visit and overnight stay at the Horizontal Falls. Located on Talbot Bay in the McLarty Ranges about 30 minutes flying time north of Derby. The falls are so named because there is about a 3 metre fall in water in Talbot Bay when the tide goes out and we got to travel thru one of the “arch’s” and experience the thrill of being a “component” of the huge torrent of water that escapes the bay. The following photos are just some of the pics I took during our trip.

We took off from Derby airport and then landed on Talbot Bay next to the “pontoon” out accomodation for the night. Having never been on a seaplane before, that was also a highlight for me. As soon and we landed it was off to go thru the falls in our fast boat, although the tide was stable at this time it was still very exciting and wetted our appetite for the morning trip when the tide was running out. Dinner on board the pontoon was freshly BBQ’ed Barramundi and Sue, Andrew, Susan and I enjoyed the company other guests over dinner and a glass (or 2) of wine. This morning it was up early for breakfast and then back into the fast boats for our ride thru the falls. What followed later was morning tea, a cruise thru the Bay to Turtle Creek and then a great flight back to Derby, with low level passes of the sounds and canyons around the Ranges and King Sound. A ver memorable experience.

Derby from the air, with our Caravan park in the forefront.
The “Pontoon” our accomodation for the night. It was very stable, hardly noticed any movement. The Horizontal Falls Adventure runs from March thru November, and then the Pontoon is packed up and taken up Cyclone Creek during the wet season to protect it from the harsh Wet season storms.
Me in the shark cage, whilst the sharks have a feed!
Our late afternoon cruise thru the falls was rather passive but still very exciting.
It’s morning now and we’re heading to the falls to experience the 1 metre fall thru the entrance.
You can see the rough water here as the huge amount of water try’s to get thru the opening. It’s very turbulent both ways!
Low tide in Talbot Bay, just shows you the difference between low and high tides. Tides here are the 2nd largest in the world outside Nova Scotia.
The Falls from our aircraft after take off form the bay. The smaller arch still has big volumes of water travelling thru whilst the larger arch as levelled out somewhat at this time.
A few of the Falls from the 180 degree opposite angle, amazing the colour change in such a very short time.
Coming into land at Derby airport. You can tell there is not much in the way of “scenery’ around the airport, for that matter Derby in itself.

So tomorrow we head to Broome. Susan and I will have an extended stay there whilst Sue and Andrew head south (after Broome) to Karajini National Park. We developed problems with our electronics in the Crusier after travelling thru a creek crossing at El Questro near Kununurra. It’s going to be a costly repair and we’re hoping our stay in Broome will be no longer than 8 days. The Cruiser has been great on all our trips in the 7 years we have had it and it seems we have just been un-lucky. It’s not an unknown issue as 3 new Hi Lux utes have also surcome to the same problem. Fingers crossed we get a good outcome and can catch up with Sue & Andrew at Bullara Station near Exmouth in 8 days time.

Tuesday the 16th of August 2022 – Derby, Western Australia

Sunset over the Indian Ocean at Derby

We left the Bungle Bungles yesterday on our journey to Derby with a planned free camp overnight at Ngumban Cliff Rest area. Unfortunately Sue and Andrew had a slight issue with their D-Max which thankfully was an easy fix but it did give us a few hours to “enjoy” the locality and locals of Halls Creek. We were told by a female elder to watch out for a young indigenous kid in a red shirt who had already stole a handbag from a female tourist. This was very kind of as she was obviously concerned about the issue and was warning us to be careful. From Halls Creek we travelled to Marypool Rest area and had a very enjoyable free camp there.

This gentlemen was trumpeting the word of GOD, as he walked the main drag of Halls Creek with his Cross. Didn’t seem to get many customers but Andrew got his life story and he has had a “difficult” life, hopefully it improves from wheeling a cross around regional towns in the top end.
Sunset at Marypool Rest area.
Very warm during the day and it cooled down dramatically at night. Happy hour at Marypool and you can see it was cold and it was only 7 pm.

We left Marypool very early this morning (around 6.20 am) as we had a big day of travelling to get to Derby. First stop approx. 200 k’s up the road was Fitzroy Crossing for breakie and a re-fuel. From there we travelled to the giant BOAB tree for a lunch stop, about 150 k’s up the road. After our stop here it was a leisurely drive of 100 k’s to Derby.

The giant BOAB tree
Sunset in the Saddle at Derby!
On a king tide this area is completely covered by the ocean but today it was a very flat pan that went for K’s.

Tomorrow Susan, Andrew and I are doing the Horizontal Falls. Which is very much a bucket list item. We fly in a seaplane from Derby out to the Falls in Talbot Bay, traverse the falls in a jet boat, enjoy a seafood dinner and then stay on a pontoon “hotel”. We’ve had this booked for nearly 12 months and despite our issues with both vehicles, we’ve made it here to Derby and we’re off to do it tomorrow.

I do have to mention that its been a bit “nervous” here in the Top End and WA. There have been many issues with the local indigenous communities with regards to breakins and stealing, just tonight here in Derby the local police have patrolled the caravan park about 4 times before 10 pm. We have to lock everything away and ensure our vehicle and van is locked at all times. It seems to be a consistent theme across WA and the NT. In all honesty I don’t know how you stop it. I think our senior politicians need to jump in a van and travel for 6 weeks in this area as we do, to get a real appreciation of the problems and then there will be a better understanding. The way some of the indigenous people live is an inditement on our current day society! Anyway enough of the political crap, Horizontal Falls, here we come!